Asscher Cut

The famous Asscher cut was patented by Joseph Asscher of Holland in 1902. Along with his brother, Abraham, he formed the Royal Asscher Company in 1854. The Asscher brothers were famous at the time because they named the individual diamonds they cut after the royalty of the times. They started out working with cushion cuts, but later, inspired by the Renaissance table cuts, the Asschers invented a cut that they patented and named after themselves.

Joseph Asscher is probably most famous for the work he performed on the Cullinan diamond, the largest diamond in history. Delegated by King Edward VII, Joseph Asscher divided the 3,205 carat Cullinan diamond into three stones. The stones, all flawless, are now part of the British Crown Jewels in the Tower of London. One of these stones, also known as The Star of Africa, is set into the scepter of Edward VII. It weighs 530.20 carats and has 74 facets.

One thing that makes Asscher cuts so unique is that there are no unconditional standard proportions so each diamond has its one-of-a-kind look. Apart from the obvious square shape and wide beveled corners, another thing that makes the Asscher cut so different is that it also features many parallel step facets that seem to create a pattern throughout the diamond. The total depth of the Asscher cut needs to be deeper than the present day emerald cut to accommodate these steps. Looking directly into the Asscher cut, this pattern creates a "Hall of Mirrors" effect or the illusion of an infinite hallway of reflecting mirrors. Precision cutting is extremely important with this cut as it is one is the cuts that is the easiest for discerning flaws and inclusions. The original Asscher cut, cut by Joseph or his brother is rare and found mostly in estate sales.

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Because of its scintillating fascination and individuality, Asscher cuts are elegant and timeless. Asscher cuts, with their smooth, square edges, make truly distinctive engagement rings, and some would conclude it has become the ring of choice for today's celebrities. Reese Witherspoon wears a four-carat Asscher cut ring given to her by husband Ryan Philleppee. Also, Kate Hudson's rock star husband Chris Robinson's choice of engagement ring was a five-carat Asscher cut in Art Deco style. For her appearance at the 73rd annual Academy Awards, actress Sharon Stone chose an 11 carat Royal Asscher cut ring to complete her stunning look.

Very popular in the Art Deco style jewelry, Asscher cuts are the forerunner of today's emerald cut and are sometimes called the square emerald cut. Since it is so rarely seen, Asscher cuts offer a dazzling old world charm, which is experiencing a revival in popularity. A flood of copy-cuts has kept the Asscher name current, but true Asscher cuts are as rare as Snow in August. Many people mistake a square emerald cut diamond as an Asscher cut. The confusion is caused by the fact that the square-emerald cut (also known as a 'step cut') may look exactly the same to someone who has no diamond experience, but an expert can determine true Asscher cuts by measuring the table, crown, and pavilion of the diamond. Reproductions of Asscher cuts are around, but because there are no specific blueprints to guide cutters, modern reproductions have difficulty capturing the exact appearance of an original Asscher cut.

Original Asscher cuts can demand a huge price because they are so rare, but most modern diamond buyers wouldn't be attracted by their color or size, but more for their antique charm. Most diamond dealers find their customers who request an Asscher cut will cheerfully settle for today's Asscher style square-emerald cut.

M. Fabrikant & Sons of New York is the sole North American distributor for the 74 faceted, octagonal-cut Royal Asscher cuts, and can provide Royal Asscher cuts in loose stones or in various Asscher cut settings. Edward Asscher, whose family developed the imaginative Asscher cut a century ago in Amsterdam, says this new and superior Royal Asscher cut was achieved by applying modern know-how to the old patent to maximize the stone's brilliance.

Whether Royal Asscher cuts are superior to original Asscher cuts is a personal preference. Once thing that is for sure is that the trademarked Royal Asscher commands a 15%-30% premium in price over original Asschers diamonds and there is very limited supply due to the limited number of cutters making this shape. Cutting Royal Asscher cuts also results in a greater amount of waste in the cutting process and requires a special type of diamond crystal structure which only increases its rarity in the wholesale market.



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